Category: At the Workshop

24 Jan 2015

Split Toe Derby

At the Workshop

Split Toe Derby with a Thomas Heel.

green_shoes_lake

green_shoes

19 Sep 2014

Zipper Boots

At the Workshop |

zipper-boots

stitching-detail

19 Sep 2014

Zipper Boots Construction

At the Workshop |

Here are some miscellaneous photos of the makingĀ of a pair of zipper boots.

crimping

lining

upper-sewing-vamp

upper-skiving

upper-fold-edge

upper-back-stay

upper-vamps

upper-sewing-back-stay

lining-upper

upper-lining-inserted

uppers

topline-sewing

insole-blocking

insole-channel

insole-awl

toe-puff

toe-puff-file

lasting

welt-stitching

heel-seat-stitch-full

heel-seat-stitching.hpg

sole-trim

sole-stitching

sole-close-channel

sole-rand

sole-heel-peg

sole-heel-build

heel-glass

sole-glassing

20 Aug 2014

Semi Brogue Derby

At the Workshop |

semi-brogue-derby

semi-brogue-derby-2

welt-detail

20 Aug 2014

Semi Brogue Derby Construction

At the Workshop |

Here are a few photos showing some of the process of making this pair of shoes.

last_starting

last-hack-saw

last-toe-shape

uppers-quarters-broguing

uppers-outers-pieces

uppers-quarters-construction

uppers-quarters-sewing

uppers-vamps-sewing

uppers-vamps-and-quarters

uppers-quarters

uppers-vamps

uppers-sewing-lining-outers

uppers-finished

insole-attach

insoles-blocking-example

insole-knife

insole-channel

insole-awl

heel-counter

before-lasting

toe-puff-lasting

toe-puffs

welt-stitching

welt-stitching-2

welt-trimming

welt-shank-cover

midsole-trim

midsole-stitching

midsole-closing-channel

sole-lap-stone

sole-attaching

sole-rand

heel-peg-awl

heel-peg-hammer

heel-top-lift

finishing-trim-welt

heel-finishing-hammer

finishing-sole-glass

finishing-heel-edge-paint

finishing-fudge-wheel

finishing-heel-iron

finishing-edge-iron

heel-seat-inner

welt-detail

19 Aug 2014

Chukka Boots Resole

At the Workshop

The Chukka Boots that I made a few years ago returned to the workshop for new soles. The customer said he wore them every day, and it showed. Now they are repaired and ready for more years of life.

before_repair

heel_removed

sole_removed

sole_removed_off

new_sole

new_sole_stitching

refinishing

chukka-resoled

19 Sep 2013

Apron Derby

At the Workshop |

apron-derby

apron-front-derby-2

18 Sep 2013

Bologna Construction

At the Workshop |

Here are a few images showing some of the making of an apron front derby using the bologna construction method.

patern-pieces

sewing-lining

quarters-skiving

topline-quarters

quarters-together

sewing-quarters

stitching-quarters

aprons-folding

upper-apron

apron-stitching

heel-counter

toe-puff

last-toe-puff

rasp-toe

first-lasting

bologna

bologna-before

sock-pre-stitch

stitch-sock

socks-stitched

second-lasting-soon

cork

insole

relasting

heel-stitching

sole-place

cut-channel

stitching-channels

blake-heel

blake-stitch-inside

blake-toe

blake-finished

closing-channel

file-rand

trim-heel-lift

finished-shoes

27 Feb 2013

Boots with Lifts

At the Workshop |

boots_with_lifts

I only took a limited number of construction photos during the making of this pair.

Photo Feb 11, 10 27 27 AM

Photo Feb 13, 11 25 11 AM

Photo Feb 14, 3 19 26 PM

Photo Feb 14, 10 50 49 AM

Photo Feb 16, 11 39 29 AM

Photo Feb 18, 11 28 02 AM

Photo Feb 18, 1 55 13 PM

Photo Feb 22, 4 19 29 PM

13 Feb 2013

Wholecuts with a Fiddleback Waist

At the Workshop |

wholecut-fiddleback-fitzpatrick

wholecuts-fiddleback-fitzpatrick2

wholecuts-fitzpatrick4

12 Feb 2013

Wholecuts Construction

At the Workshop |

Here are some construction photos of a pair of Wholecuts with a Fiddleback Waist.

mean pattern

Pattern Pieces

Lining

sewing lining

beaded edge

Tongue

Sewing Outer

Upper Pieces

Finished Uppers

insole blocked

Insole trim

Insole Prep

Pre-lasting

Toe Puff

Toe Puff Shaped

Lasted

Welting

Heel Seat

First Rand

Fender

Sole

Attach Sole

Sole Attached

Stitching Channel

Sole Stitching

Closing Channel

Pegging Sole at Heel

Heel Lifts

Building Heel

Cutting Heel

Rasping

Painting

Finishing

Sock Liners

Finished Shoes

30 Jan 2013

Zipper Boots

At the Workshop |

zipper boots

A pair of zipper boots that were delivered to a customer last week.

18 Jul 2012

Boots with hidden lifts

At the Workshop |

17 Jul 2012

Making Elevator Boots

At the Workshop |

16 Jul 2012

Elevator Boot Insoles

At the Workshop |

15 Jul 2012

Uppers for Elevator Boots

At the Workshop |

14 Jul 2012

Hidden Lifts

At the Workshop |

The making of a pair of inserts for a pair of boots with hidden lifts

15 May 2012

Monkey Boots

At the Workshop |

14 May 2012

Monkey Boots Progress

At the Workshop |

The design of these ankle boots was inspired by the Czech Army boots known as Monkey Boots.

05 Apr 2012

Gibsons

At the Workshop |

04 Apr 2012

Building Heels & Finishing

At the Workshop |

28 Mar 2012

Alchemy

At the Workshop |

I’m in the process of making a quick edge ink to finish the Gibsons with. Here are all the ingredients, except water:

25 Mar 2012

Some Upper Making

At the Workshop |

19 Mar 2012

Chukka Boots

At the Workshop |

18 Mar 2012

Finishing

At the Workshop |

And the finished Chukka Boots.